Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Jasper Socks


Jasper socks are made with a bulky thick and thin yarn and are so named because I knitted one on the way from Lake Louise to Jasper, and the other on the way back. They're perfect for winter sports, or curling up by the fire with a book- or a bag of marshmallows. They take less than three hours per sock, from gauge swatch to weaving in the last little tail.

I have not actually made the men's size in this yarn but I have made the same proportions in other yarns so I believe it will work. If the feet which will be wearing these are smaller (or larger) than ladies shoe size 7-9 or men's shoe size 9-11, consider decreasing (or increasing) the length of the sole by about a quarter inch for each size change.

This pattern is for personal use only. Please share this pattern by directing your friends to my site.

Sizes:
Ladies' and Mens' (changes for Men's in brackets)

Materials:
Napier by Sean Sheep, 2 (3) balls in wine.
5mm (size 8) double pointed needles or size needed for gauge
stitch holder
tapestry needle

Gauge:
17 sts and 21 rows = 4" in stocking stitch

Abbreviations used:
k2tog: knit next two stitches together
p2tog: purl next two stitches together
ssk: slip next two stitches knitwise, insert left-hand needle, knit them together.

Cuff:
Cast on 32(36) stitches with 10(12) on 1st needle, 10(12) on 2nd needle, and 12(12) on 3rd needle. Place a marker on your 1st needle. Working in the round, k1,p1 for 10 rounds. Knit 11 more rounds. (If you want a cuff longer than 4", you may need an extra ball of yarn). Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail.

Heel Shaping:
With marker for first needle facing you, slip 8(9) sts from 1st needle onto one needle, and 8(9) sts from 3rd needle on the same needle. Place 16(18) stitches onto a holder. Your marker should be in the middle of the needle. With wrong side facing you, work next section back and forth:
Row 1: Sl 1, purl to end of needle
Row 2: Sl 1, knit to end of needle
Repeat these two rows until you have 2"(2.25") Wrong side facing for next row.
Row 1: Sl 1, p8(9), p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: sl 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn
Row 3: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 4: Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn
Row 5: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 6: Sl 1, k7, ssk, k1(2)

You should now have 10(12) sts on your needle and the right side of your work facing you.

Instep:
You will go back to working in the round.
With 1st needle, pick up and knit 8(10) sts up the edge of the heel. With 2nd needle, knit across 16(18) sts on the holder. With 3rd needle, pick up and knit 8(10)sts down the the heel and 5(6) sts from the next needle. Slip the other 5(6) sts from this needle onto your 1st needle. You now have 13 (16) sts on your 1st needle, 16(18) sts on your second needle and 13(16)sts on your third needle. 42(48) sts in total.

Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, k1. needle 2: knit. needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these two rounds 5(7) times in total for a remainder of 8(9) sts on 1st needle, 16(18) sts on 2nd needle and 8(9)sts on 3rd needle. 32(36) sts in total.

Knit even in rounds until work measures 5.5" (6.5" )from the picked up stitches. Note: If you happen to have the intended foot handy, the actual length should be the distance (in a straight line, not the diagonal) from the middle of the anklebone to between the knuckles of the big toe.

Toe shaping:
Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds 4(5) times for a remainder of 16 sts. 4 on 1st needle, 8 on 2nd needle, 4 on 3rd needle. Knit the 4 sts from the first needle onto the third needle. Break the yarn leaving a long tail and use this to graft the toe together.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams.


These are the men's socks, made with SWS by Patons. (Totally different gauge; don't substitute.) I put a slip stitch rib on the heels, just for a change.

Friday, February 9, 2007

Baby Toque to Match Berry Sweater



Materials:
-Microspun (Lion Brand) 1/3 - 1/2 ball of Magenta (MC) and small amount of French Vanilla
-3.75mm and 4mm needles
-Pompom maker
-yarn needle

Gauge: 24 sts = 4 inches on 4mm needles over Berry Stitch (see Berries & Cream Baby Sweater)

Size
Small- up to 6 months Large- up to 12 months

With CC and 3.75mm needles, cast on 74(94)sts.
Work k1,p1 rib for 8 rows.
Switch to MC and 4mm needles, and k1 row.
Next Row: K1, begin Berry Stitch, k1
When work is 7(9) inches long, cast off.

Finishing:
Sew side seam. Top seam is sewn into a cross, and then the points pulled up and sewn into a peak. Using Mattress Stitch, sew 9(11) sts on top together. Skip 18(24) sts on both sides of top, and then sew 9(12) tog, making sure the last sewn stitch of the first part is snug against the first stitch of the second part, thus forming a cross with the unsewn parts. Join yarn to 9th(12th) stitch at left hand side, and sew 9(12) sts tog, then another 9(12) sts on the right hand side of centre. With yarn still joined, sew the points together into a peak. End off yarn. With CC, make a pompom and sew to peak. Weave in all ends.

This pattern is for personal use only. If you wish to share it, please direct your friends to this site. Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams.

Baby Booties to Match Berry Sweater


April 28, 2011
Errata: For the large size of booties on the instep, it should read:
Row 1: k20(24), k2tog, sl 1, bring yarn to front (byf), turn work
It originally read (25).
I am sorry for the inconvenience. I am working on a downloadable PDF for this pattern, with clearer instructions and corrections.

More Errata:
The increase instructions have been confusing, so I have clarified the increase instructions to make it easier to follow.


Booties:


Size: Small (3-6 months) and large (6-12 months). (Changes for large size are in brackets)

Materials:
1 pair 4mm (size 6) needles and 3.75 needles (for ribbed top)
1 ball Microspun, in Magenta or French Vanilla (leftovers from sweater will be more than sufficient)
tapestry needle
contrasting color ribbon (if desired), about 2 feet per bootie.

Pattern Notes:
•Worked starting from sole.
•Increases are worked by picking up the horizontal bar between the next two stitches and knitting into the back of it. (M1)
•Instructions are given for a lace top and a ribbed top.
•Leave a long yarn end after casting off for easier seam sewing.
•ssk is: slip next two stitches onto right needle knitwise, insert left hand needle back into stitches, and knit together.

Sole & Toe shaping:
Cast on 23(29) sts
Knit 2 rows
Row 3: k11(14), M1, k1, M1, k11(14)
Row 4: k1, M1, k23(29), M1, k1
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: K12(15), M1, k3, M1, k12(15)
Row 7: k1, M1, k27(33), M1, k1
Row 8: knit
Row 9: k13(16), M1, k5, M1, k13(16)
small size: knit until piece measures 1.5 inches.•
large size:
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: k16, M1, k7,M1, k16.
Knit until piece measures 1.75 inches.•


Instep:
Row 1: k20(24), k2tog, sl 1, bring yarn to front (byf), turn work
Row 2: sl 1,k6(8), k2 tog, sl 1, byf, turn work
Repeat Row 2 until you have 23(29) sts left. Knit to end of row. (Large: increase one stitch at the end of this row.)


Lace top:
Row 1: k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2* Repeat
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k1, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk* repeat to last st, k1
Row 4: Purl

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 times for small, 5 times for large. Cast off with a larger size needle.


Ribbed top:
Change to 3.75 mm needles and CC yarn.
Work a k1, p1 rib for 2.5(3) inches. Cast off with a larger size needle. For a seamless top which can be folded over (as shown), switch to double-pointed needles, inc 1 st, and work in the round.

Finishing:
Sew seams. Weave in yarn ends. Affix ribbon to bootie securely.

This pattern is for personal use only. If you would like to share it, send your friends to this site. Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams

Thursday, February 8, 2007

Necessity is the Mother of... Stir Sicks

I used to drive a school bus. I never actually knitted while driving (the turns would have been awkward) but I will admit that visions of beautiful sweaters and afghans filled my mind as I drove. (Kids? What kids?) After my run I would often wait at the bus yard for my husband to come and drive me home. What better thing to do with an idle hour than knit? However, sometimes I would forget (or lose) my cable needle... and then, what to do?? Cable needles are in short supply in industrial parks, but there's lots of coffee- and I discovered that a stir stick will do for a cable needle or stitch holder in a pinch.

What's the weirdest thing you've ever adapted to your knitting needs? Leave a comment, I'd love to hear!

Thursday, February 1, 2007

Berries & Cream Baby Sweater

Please note that this pattern is my original design and may be used for personal use only. If you wish to share this with friends, please direct them to my site.



Berries & Cream Baby Sweater

Size: 9-12 months
Finished chest will be 25"

Materials:
•Lion Brand Microspun: 3 balls MC (Fuchsia) and 1 ball CC (French Vanilla) or colors of your choice.
•3.75 mm (size 5) & 4 mm (size 6) needles (one set each)
•4 buttons
•tapestry needle

Gauge:
24 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) over Berry Stitch pattern
32 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Berry Stitch:
multiple of 4 stitches.
* Row 1: *(K1, yo, k1) in same stitch, p3 tog; repeat from *. (Wrong side row.)
* Row 2: *K1, p3; repeat from *.
* Row 3: *K3, p1; repeat from *. (You will be knitting all knit stitches and purling all purl stitches.)
* Row 4: *P1, k3; repeat from *. (You will be purling all knit stitches and knitting all purl stitches.)
* Row 5: *P3 tog, (k1, yo, k1) in same stitch, ; repeat from *.
* Row 6: *P3, k1; repeat from *.
* Row 7: *P1, k3; repeat from *.
* Row 8: *k3, p1; repeat from *.

Pattern notes: When making decreases for the armholes, count your stitches on each decrease row. This stitch pattern can screw up the number of stitches if you're not careful. There is a selvedge stitch at each end of every piece.

BACK
With CC and smaller size needles, cast on 70 sts. Knit 6 rows. End off CC and join MC. Switch to larger needles. Knit 1 row.
Next row: (wrong side) k1, begin berry stitch, work until last stitch, k1. Continue in this manner until work measures 5.5 inches from beginning.
•Armhole shaping:
Bind of 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*Next Row: dec 1st at each end of row. Work next row even.* Repeat from * 4 more times. 56 sts remaining.
Continue knitting in pattern until work measures 10.5 inches from the beginning.
•Neck shaping:
Work 18, cast off 18, work 18.
N.R.: Work 18
N.R.: Dec 2 sts, (at neck edge) work 16
N.R.:Work 16
Cast off
Join yarn to other shoulder and work the same way.

Left Front
With CC and smaller size needles, cast on 34 sts. Knit 6 rows. Join MC, switch to larger needles and knit 1 row.
N.R.: K1, beg berry stitch, work till last stitch, k1.
Continue knitting in pattern until work measures 5.5 inches from beginning. Have the right side facing for the next row.
•Armhole shaping:
Row 1:Bind off 3 sts, knit in pattern to end. (31 sts)
2: dec 1 st at end of row (30 sts)
3: work even
4: dec 1 st at end of row (29 sts)
5: work even
6: dec 1 st at end of row (28 sts)
7: work even
8: dec 1 st at end of row (27 sts)
9: work even
10: dec 1 st at end of row (26 sts)
Work 4 inches (from beginning of armhole.) Wrong side facing for next row.
•Neck Shaping:
Row 1: Cast off 4 sts at beg of row
2: Work even
3: Cast off 3 sts at beg of row
4: Work Even
5: Dec 1 st at neck edge
6: Work even
7: Dec 1 st at neck edge
8: Work even
9: Dec 1 st at neck edge (16 sts left)
Cast off.

Right Front
Make the same as left front but start the armhole shaping on the wrong side and the neck shaping on the right side.

Sleeve (make 2)
Cast on 38 sts in CC with smaller needles, knit 6 rows. End CC. Join MC and switch to larger needles.
N.R.: k1, inc1, knit to last 2 sts, inc1, k1
Now begin berry stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of every fourth row until you have 64 sts. Work even until piece measures 7 inches.
Bind of 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*Next Row: dec 1st at each end of row. Work next row even.* Repeat from * 4 more times. 48 sts remaining. Piece should measure 8.5 inches. Add a few rows if you are short.

Finishing
With tapestry needle, sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves onto body. Sew side seams.
•Left front band: With right side of work facing and with smaller needles, join CC and pick up 54 sts evenly starting from the collar. Knit 7 rows. Cast off.
•Right front band: With right side of work facing and with smaller needles, join CC and pick up 54 sts evenly starting from the bottom. Knit 3 rows. Next row: K7, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k3. Knit 3 rows. Cast off.
•Neckband: With right side facing and smaller needles, join CC and pick up 20 stitches from right front to shoulder, 28 sts across back, and 20 sts from left shoulder to the left front. Knit 5 rows. Cast off.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams. For personal use only, and please link original url source.

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Knitting Tanglewise

Since all I do (besides the normal running of a household with two boys, studying Hebrew, playing the guitar and I forget what else) is knit and crochet, I can't resist starting up a blog to use up any vestiges of spare time which I might have spent reading. I'd love to have just a brag page (what knitter doesn't?), but that would be terribly useless, so I'll share tips and tricks I've picked up here and there, besides posting a few of my designs and ideas, favorite yarns, and who knows what else. A few spoilers- watch for baby layettes, slipper socks, boy's sweaters and little girls' poncho designs.

I was really hoping for a girl-baby at some point so I could have some excuse for depleting the yarn store's stock of novelty yarns, but it was not meant to be... except that now I have two nieces, who work very nicely as an excuse. I made a beige cable sweater for my older son, which he thought was horribly boring (he said "I wanted orange!") until I explained that the cables were train tracks and he mistook "bobbles" for "bubbles"- and now it's the coolest thing going. Still, boys are harder to knit for; there's no clamor for pink eyelash yarn or lace edgings. Since I have boys, I'll be posting as many "made for boys" patterns as I make up, since there really aren't that many out there- and sometimes just substituting a dark yarn doesn't really cut it.