I Think I Believe in Spring

Knitting the leaves on my pretty new socks and the lovely warm air lured me outside to survey my neglected flowerbeds. As I began clearing away leaves, Ian popped his head outside and we had a Tom Sawyer moment. Soon we were doing this:


It was wonderful to see that the bulbs were trying very hard to come up. I saw evidence of crocuses, grape hyacinth, and campanula trying to make some headway. The real winners in the garden are these pushkinia:

I had almost given up hope. It's been nasty.

Always the first up, first to bloom, and the loveliest snowdrop type flowers will be bursting out after a few more warm days.

The sun was shining brightly on them so they look like they're glowing.

I also realized yesterday that I am going to have to work much faster on this navy scarf - I need those needles for the Myrtle Leaf Shawl (ravelry link) from Victorian Lace Today. I expect it to be long and involved, and wonderful.

I Know How To Do That

On Sunday, we were curled up on the couch together, Ian and I, and he was mesmerized watching me knit. He, being a sophisticated eight year old, knows everything there is, and if he doesn't, "my mind tells me". It was no surprise when he stated,
"I know how to do that."

He began wiggling his hands around in a passable imitation of the smooth movements he'd been watching for the last half hour. So I decided the time was ripe to hand him a pair of needles and some yarn. I taught him a basic cast on, and he proceeded to fill the needle with it.



He is catching on pretty quickly and I'm prouder of him than I can even express. And guess what? All he wants to do now is knit. He even sometimes forgets to dress up in his knight costume before he starts.

The scarf in progress:



He, of course, is focused on the day when he will knit his own fish hat. So am I, actually. Somebody else to knit up all my stash.

Busted!

I'm starting my spring clean here a little early, and that means I've got to clear out old stash. I've been knitting & crocheting for 10 years now, and have lived in this home for nearly seven years... so it's long overdue. I cleared out space in my upstairs stash last fall (for new yarn, not using up old yarn of course), when I started my Christmukkah knitting- that is, the stash in the white bins. And a little bit from the box in the closet.

Last night I cleared out the furnace room. I won't miss the yarn, but the part that bothered me was finding four abandoned projects. Three of them were hideous (in my defense, my son picked out the yarn for one. I got tired of putting on my sunglasses to knit) and for one I had run out of yarn. One count of poor planning (and then abandoning the yarn), and three counts of idiocy. That's a little disheartening but they were really, really old projects, and I'm much better at controlling my urge to buy gaudy yarns.

Today I moved my white bins into the furnace room and tried to empty the space in the laundry room... and take a close look at what's in the linen closet... and then there's that little space behind the desk... the long and short of it is, good project or bad project, cute or ugly, I found a gazillion more UFO's (my husband likes to call them yarn orphans) and an ugly truth about myself. I usually don't finish things. (Ok, I do have some wonderful FO's & I remeber giving lots of them as gifts...) And no matter how much I have, I keep on adding, adding, adding until I get to the point where I can't imagine even trying to use up everything I have. I realized this is not just about yarn, it runs much deeper into every nook and cranny of myself... and it's worth repenting of, I think...

Even though the Malabrigo Lace is calling to me from its drawer I think I am going to do some serious stashbusting and that will probably involve many socks, hats and mitts because I also seem to have difficulty buying more than a couple of balls of any one thing at a time. Except, apparently, chenille. Yikes! What do I do with five pounds of chenille in various weights? And when I bought all that cotton, how many dishcloths did I think the world could USE?

I think I can thank Ravelry for being a place where I can keep on top of myself and stay on track with my stash & projects- I finished (almost) all my gift knitting last fall, thanks to my Ravelry page.

er... anyone want some purple chenille? White? Pink? Blue? Teal?....

Helen's Beret

Errata: Upon wearing & stretching of the beret & realizing the effect of bamboo's lack of "springiness" I have included sizing for a smaller size hat (now called "medium") and plan to size it for small as well.






Materials:
-3 balls of Bernat Bamboo Natural Blends
-set of size 8 (5mm) double pointed needles
-16 inch circular needle, size 8 (5mm)
-set of size 7 (4.5mm) dpn's OR 16 inch circular needle

Gauge:
12 sts & 24 rows = 4 inches (10cm)

Size:
women's medium (21 inches) and large (23 inches), 8.5 inches from crown to edge. Changes for large are in parentheses.




Notes:
The hat is worked in the round from the crown down. I switched from dpn's to a 16 inch circular at about row 24. Make sure you have the same gauge or you will have to make adjustments to achieve good results. To make a more fitted, less slouchy beret, omit rows 39-46. To make a slouchier beret, repeat rows 33-38 again after row 46. If you find a mistake in this pattern, leave a comment!


Abbreviations:
m1: pick up the horizontal strand between the next two stitches and knit it from the back (so it twists and doesn't make a hole.)

m1p: pick up the horizontal strand between the next two stitches and purl it from the back (so it twists and doesn't make a hole.)

C4F: (cable 4 front) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 2, knit 2 stitches from cable needle.

C3F: (cross 3 front) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, k2 sts from cable needle

C3B: (cross 3 back) slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, p1 st from cable needle

C4R: (cross 4 right) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, p2 from cable needle

C4L: (cross 4 left) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p2, k2 from cable needle


Instructions:
Cast 4 stitches onto a 5mm dpn. Keep the same side facing you and slide the stitches to the other end (as if you were making I-cord.)

Row 1: Use the rest of your dpn's, and knit into the front and back of each stitch.
Row 2: p 8
Row 3: *p1, m1p* 8 times
Row 4: p 16
Row 5: *p2, m1p* 8 times
Row 6: p 24
Row 7: *p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 8: *p1, m1, k1, m1, k1, p1* 8 times
Row 9: *p1, k4, p1, m1p* 8 times
Row 10: *p1, C4F, p2* 8 times
Row 11: *p1, k4, p2, m1p* 8 times
Row 12: *p1, C4F, p3* 8 times
Row 13: *p1, k4, p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 14: *C3B, C3F, p3* 8 times
Row 15: *k2, p2, k2, p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 16: *C3F, C3B, p4* 8 times
Row 17: *p1,m1p, k4, p5* 8 times
Row 18: *p2, C4F, p5* 8 times
Row 19: *p2, k4, p5, m1p* 8 times
Row 20: *C4R, C4L, p4* 8 times
Row 21: *k2, p4, k2, p4, m1p* 8 times
Row 22: *k2, p4, k2, p5* 8 times
Row 23: *k2, p4, k2, p5, m1p* 8 times
Row 24: *C4L, C4R, p6* 8 times
Row 25: *p2, k4, p8, m1p* 8 times
Row 26: *p2, C4F, p9* 8 times
Row 27: *p2, k4, p9, (m1p)* 8 times
Row 28: *p1, C3B, C3F, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 29: *p1, k2, p2, k2, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 30: *p1, C3F, C3B, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 31: *p2, k4, p9 (10)* 8 times
Row 32: *p2, C4F, p9 (10)* 8 times
Row 33: as row 31
Row 34: as row 32
Row 35: as row 31
Row 36: as row 28
Row 37: as row 29
Row 38: as row 30
Row 39: as row 31
Row 40: as row 32
Row 41: as row 31
Row 42: *C4R, C4L, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 43: *k2, p4, k2, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 44: as row 43
Row 45: as row 43
Row 46: *C4L, C4R, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 47: (medium size) *p2tog, k4, [p2tog] 2 times, p3tog, p2tog* 8 times
Row 47: (large size) *p2tog, k4, [p2tog, p1] 2 times, p2tog twice* 8 times

CHANGE TO 4.5mm NEEDLES
Row 48: *p1, C4F, [p1,k1] 2 (3) times* 8 times
Row 49: *p1, k4, [p1, k1] 2 (3) times* 8 times
Row 50: as row 49
Row 51: as row 48
Row 52: as row 49
Row 53: as row 49
Row 54: as row 48
Row 55: *p1, k1, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (3) times, k1* 8 times
Cast off stitches as they lie with a needle at least 2 sizes larger than the one you're using.

Pattern Copyright 2008, Rachel Abrams. If you like this pattern please send people to this site.

Braided Cable Hat

Who says boys can't wear braids?

I've been going through my stash, looking for nice heavy yarns to make into hats and mitts for the nieces and nephews and came across a few random balls of Lion Brand Homespun. There's enough in one ball for a child's hat and mitts, and here is the hat pattern- mitts to follow.

Notes:
-The small and large sizes are made with needles in size 5 & 7, and the medium & extra large are made with needles in sizes 6 & 8, so gauge is very important to get the right size of hat.
-The small size makes a toddler size hat, medium child size 4-6, large child size 8-10, extra large, adult size. (this is a rough guide as my head fits the large size but then I have a small head and have always worn boy's large size.)
-The hat is worked from the crown down. If you tend to bind off tightly, either use a larger needle for your bind off, or consider working the hat from edge to crown instead, reversing the shaping. I use a Kitchener rib bind off on hats to keep the lower edge stretchy. The only place I know of that has instructions for this bind off (which is really very attractive, professional, and stretchy) is in the book Big Book of Knitting by Katharina Buss. It takes some time to master but it really is worth the effort.

Materials:
1 skein Lion Brand Homespun, any color
1 set of 5 size 5 (3.75mm) and 7 (4.5mm) double pointed needles if you are making the small or large size hat
1 set of 5 of size 6 (4mm) and 8 (5mm) double pointed needles if you are making the medium or extra large size hat
pompom maker

Gauge:
on size 7 needles: 14 sts / 4 inches in stocking stitch
on size 8 needles: 12 sts / 4 inches in stocking stitch

Abbreviations:
c4b: slip 2 stitches onto cable needle & hold at back of work, k2, knit stitches from cable needle
c4f: slip 2 stitches onto cable needle & hold at front of work, k2, knit stitches from cable needle
m1L: insert left-hand needle into the horizontal bar between the last stitch worked and the next stitch from front to back and knit into the back of it.

Cable braid:
over 6 sts
Row 1: k2, c4b
Row 2: purl
Row 3: c4f, k2
Row 4: purl


Instructions:
Crown:
(changes for large are in brackets)
Cast 6 sts onto 3 size 7 (or size 8 for med & xl) needles. Join and knit 6.
Round 1: *k1, m1L* 6 times
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3:(mark the beginning needle) *k2, m1L, k1, m1L, k1* 3 times
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *k3, m1L, k1, m1L, k2* 4 times
Round 6: Knit
Carry on in this manner until you have 66 (72) stitches. Do not bind off.

Braided Cable Band (Knitted on as you go):
Using an open cast on (so the stitches can be grafted later) cast on 12 sts onto same size of needles. (If you don't want to graft, you can always cast on and off in the usual way and sew the ends together but that does leave a bulky seam and tightens the hat a little.)

Foundation Row: (back of work) k1, p1, k1, p6, k1, p1, purl last stitch of band together with the next open stitch of the crown.
Row 1: (front) p1, k1, p1, make cable, p1,k1, p1
Row 2: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Row 3: k2, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 4: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Row 5: slip next stitch of crown onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the first stitch of the band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 6: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, k1
Row 7: slip next stitch of crown onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the first stitch of the band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 8: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Repeat rows 3-8 around the crown of the hat.
Last Row: Insert needle into first stitch worked from crown & pull up a stitch, knit together with first stitch of band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1. Do not bind off. Graft the cast on row with the final row.

You will make 3 rows of band for every 2 stitches of the crown. Small: 100 rows. Large: 108 rows.

Ribbed edge:
With smaller needles, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows on the lower edge of the band. sm: 75, lg: 81 Pick up on more to make an even number of total stitches. K1, P1 in rounds until you have 1.25 (med. 1.5, lg 1.75, xl 2) inches and cast off.

make a pompom if you like and attach it to the crown.

Shale Stitch Blanket

The stitch for the blanket in the background of the Berry Sweater is Shale stitch. You can see it peeking out a bit on this pic. The best pic is here.


18 stitch repeat
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times
Row 4: knit

Don't forget to add your selvage stitches.

My blanket was done with Lion Brand Microspun, size 8 (5mm) needles in fuchsia, purple and turquoise, changing colors at row 1. I edged it with a crocheted crab stitch, I don't remember what size hook but probably I. I repeated the stitch 9 times, and carried on until it was big enough to cover the crib. I believe I used 2 balls of each color. I was a bit disappointed at first because it was so stretchy and floppy but when the baby was born it was perfect to wrap him up in and very very cozy; it became our favorite snuggle blanket.

Jasper Socks

Jasper socks are made with a bulky thick and thin yarn and are so named because I knitted one on the way from Lake Louise to Jasper, and the other on the way back. They're perfect for winter sports, or curling up by the fire with a book- or a bag of marshmallows. They take less than three hours per sock, from gauge swatch to weaving in the last little tail.

I have not actually made the men's size in this yarn but I have made the same proportions in other yarns so I believe it will work. If the feet which will be wearing these are smaller (or larger) than ladies shoe size 7-9 or men's shoe size 9-11, consider decreasing (or increasing) the length of the sole by about a quarter inch for each size change.

This pattern is for personal use only. Please share this pattern by directing your friends to my site.

Sizes:
Ladies' and Mens' (changes for Men's in brackets)

Materials:
Napier by Sean Sheep, 2 (3) balls in wine.
5mm (size 8) double pointed needles or size needed for gauge
stitch holder
tapestry needle

Gauge:
17 sts and 21 rows = 4" in stocking stitch

Abbreviations used:
k2tog: knit next two stitches together
p2tog: purl next two stitches together
ssk: slip next two stitches knitwise, insert left-hand needle, knit them together.

Cuff:
Cast on 32(36) stitches with 10(12) on 1st needle, 10(12) on 2nd needle, and 12(12) on 3rd needle. Place a marker on your 1st needle. Working in the round, k1,p1 for 10 rounds. Knit 11 more rounds. (If you want a cuff longer than 4", you may need an extra ball of yarn). Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail.

Heel Shaping:
With marker for first needle facing you, slip 8(9) sts from 1st needle onto one needle, and 8(9) sts from 3rd needle on the same needle. Place 16(18) stitches onto a holder. Your marker should be in the middle of the needle. With wrong side facing you, work next section back and forth:
Row 1: Sl 1, purl to end of needle
Row 2: Sl 1, knit to end of needle
Repeat these two rows until you have 2"(2.25") Wrong side facing for next row.
Row 1: Sl 1, p8(9), p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: sl 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn
Row 3: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 4: Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn
Row 5: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 6: Sl 1, k7, ssk, k1(2)

You should now have 10(12) sts on your needle and the right side of your work facing you.

Instep:
You will go back to working in the round.
With 1st needle, pick up and knit 8(10) sts up the edge of the heel. With 2nd needle, knit across 16(18) sts on the holder. With 3rd needle, pick up and knit 8(10)sts down the the heel and 5(6) sts from the next needle. Slip the other 5(6) sts from this needle onto your 1st needle. You now have 13 (16) sts on your 1st needle, 16(18) sts on your second needle and 13(16)sts on your third needle. 42(48) sts in total.

Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, k1. needle 2: knit. needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these two rounds 5(7) times in total for a remainder of 8(9) sts on 1st needle, 16(18) sts on 2nd needle and 8(9)sts on 3rd needle. 32(36) sts in total.

Knit even in rounds until work measures 5.5" (6.5" )from the picked up stitches. Note: If you happen to have the intended foot handy, the actual length should be the distance (in a straight line, not the diagonal) from the middle of the anklebone to between the knuckles of the big toe.

Toe shaping:
Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds 4(5) times for a remainder of 16 sts. 4 on 1st needle, 8 on 2nd needle, 4 on 3rd needle. Knit the 4 sts from the first needle onto the third needle. Break the yarn leaving a long tail and use this to graft the toe together.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams.


These are the men's socks, made with SWS by Patons. (Totally different gauge; don't substitute.) I put a slip stitch rib on the heels, just for a change.