Helen's Beret

Errata: Upon wearing & stretching of the beret & realizing the effect of bamboo's lack of "springiness" I have included sizing for a smaller size hat (now called "medium") and plan to size it for small as well.






Materials:
-3 balls of Bernat Bamboo Natural Blends
-set of size 8 (5mm) double pointed needles
-16 inch circular needle, size 8 (5mm)
-set of size 7 (4.5mm) dpn's OR 16 inch circular needle

Gauge:
12 sts & 24 rows = 4 inches (10cm)

Size:
women's medium (21 inches) and large (23 inches), 8.5 inches from crown to edge. Changes for large are in parentheses.




Notes:
The hat is worked in the round from the crown down. I switched from dpn's to a 16 inch circular at about row 24. Make sure you have the same gauge or you will have to make adjustments to achieve good results. To make a more fitted, less slouchy beret, omit rows 39-46. To make a slouchier beret, repeat rows 33-38 again after row 46. If you find a mistake in this pattern, leave a comment!


Abbreviations:
m1: pick up the horizontal strand between the next two stitches and knit it from the back (so it twists and doesn't make a hole.)

m1p: pick up the horizontal strand between the next two stitches and purl it from the back (so it twists and doesn't make a hole.)

C4F: (cable 4 front) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 2, knit 2 stitches from cable needle.

C3F: (cross 3 front) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, k2 sts from cable needle

C3B: (cross 3 back) slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, p1 st from cable needle

C4R: (cross 4 right) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, p2 from cable needle

C4L: (cross 4 left) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p2, k2 from cable needle


Instructions:
Cast 4 stitches onto a 5mm dpn. Keep the same side facing you and slide the stitches to the other end (as if you were making I-cord.)

Row 1: Use the rest of your dpn's, and knit into the front and back of each stitch.
Row 2: p 8
Row 3: *p1, m1p* 8 times
Row 4: p 16
Row 5: *p2, m1p* 8 times
Row 6: p 24
Row 7: *p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 8: *p1, m1, k1, m1, k1, p1* 8 times
Row 9: *p1, k4, p1, m1p* 8 times
Row 10: *p1, C4F, p2* 8 times
Row 11: *p1, k4, p2, m1p* 8 times
Row 12: *p1, C4F, p3* 8 times
Row 13: *p1, k4, p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 14: *C3B, C3F, p3* 8 times
Row 15: *k2, p2, k2, p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 16: *C3F, C3B, p4* 8 times
Row 17: *p1,m1p, k4, p5* 8 times
Row 18: *p2, C4F, p5* 8 times
Row 19: *p2, k4, p5, m1p* 8 times
Row 20: *C4R, C4L, p4* 8 times
Row 21: *k2, p4, k2, p4, m1p* 8 times
Row 22: *k2, p4, k2, p5* 8 times
Row 23: *k2, p4, k2, p5, m1p* 8 times
Row 24: *C4L, C4R, p6* 8 times
Row 25: *p2, k4, p8, m1p* 8 times
Row 26: *p2, C4F, p9* 8 times
Row 27: *p2, k4, p9, (m1p)* 8 times
Row 28: *p1, C3B, C3F, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 29: *p1, k2, p2, k2, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 30: *p1, C3F, C3B, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 31: *p2, k4, p9 (10)* 8 times
Row 32: *p2, C4F, p9 (10)* 8 times
Row 33: as row 31
Row 34: as row 32
Row 35: as row 31
Row 36: as row 28
Row 37: as row 29
Row 38: as row 30
Row 39: as row 31
Row 40: as row 32
Row 41: as row 31
Row 42: *C4R, C4L, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 43: *k2, p4, k2, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 44: as row 43
Row 45: as row 43
Row 46: *C4L, C4R, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 47: (medium size) *p2tog, k4, [p2tog] 2 times, p3tog, p2tog* 8 times
Row 47: (large size) *p2tog, k4, [p2tog, p1] 2 times, p2tog twice* 8 times

CHANGE TO 4.5mm NEEDLES
Row 48: *p1, C4F, [p1,k1] 2 (3) times* 8 times
Row 49: *p1, k4, [p1, k1] 2 (3) times* 8 times
Row 50: as row 49
Row 51: as row 48
Row 52: as row 49
Row 53: as row 49
Row 54: as row 48
Row 55: *p1, k1, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (3) times, k1* 8 times
Cast off stitches as they lie with a needle at least 2 sizes larger than the one you're using.

Pattern Copyright 2008, Rachel Abrams. If you like this pattern please send people to this site.

Braided Cable Hat

Who says boys can't wear braids?

I've been going through my stash, looking for nice heavy yarns to make into hats and mitts for the nieces and nephews and came across a few random balls of Lion Brand Homespun. There's enough in one ball for a child's hat and mitts, and here is the hat pattern- mitts to follow.

Notes:
-The small and large sizes are made with needles in size 5 & 7, and the medium & extra large are made with needles in sizes 6 & 8, so gauge is very important to get the right size of hat.
-The small size makes a toddler size hat, medium child size 4-6, large child size 8-10, extra large, adult size. (this is a rough guide as my head fits the large size but then I have a small head and have always worn boy's large size.)
-The hat is worked from the crown down. If you tend to bind off tightly, either use a larger needle for your bind off, or consider working the hat from edge to crown instead, reversing the shaping. I use a Kitchener rib bind off on hats to keep the lower edge stretchy. The only place I know of that has instructions for this bind off (which is really very attractive, professional, and stretchy) is in the book Big Book of Knitting by Katharina Buss. It takes some time to master but it really is worth the effort.

Materials:
1 skein Lion Brand Homespun, any color
1 set of 5 size 5 (3.75mm) and 7 (4.5mm) double pointed needles if you are making the small or large size hat
1 set of 5 of size 6 (4mm) and 8 (5mm) double pointed needles if you are making the medium or extra large size hat
pompom maker

Gauge:
on size 7 needles: 14 sts / 4 inches in stocking stitch
on size 8 needles: 12 sts / 4 inches in stocking stitch

Abbreviations:
c4b: slip 2 stitches onto cable needle & hold at back of work, k2, knit stitches from cable needle
c4f: slip 2 stitches onto cable needle & hold at front of work, k2, knit stitches from cable needle
m1L: insert left-hand needle into the horizontal bar between the last stitch worked and the next stitch from front to back and knit into the back of it.

Cable braid:
over 6 sts
Row 1: k2, c4b
Row 2: purl
Row 3: c4f, k2
Row 4: purl


Instructions:
Crown:
(changes for large are in brackets)
Cast 6 sts onto 3 size 7 (or size 8 for med & xl) needles. Join and knit 6.
Round 1: *k1, m1L* 6 times
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3:(mark the beginning needle) *k2, m1L, k1, m1L, k1* 3 times
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *k3, m1L, k1, m1L, k2* 4 times
Round 6: Knit
Carry on in this manner until you have 66 (72) stitches. Do not bind off.

Braided Cable Band (Knitted on as you go):
Using an open cast on (so the stitches can be grafted later) cast on 12 sts onto same size of needles. (If you don't want to graft, you can always cast on and off in the usual way and sew the ends together but that does leave a bulky seam and tightens the hat a little.)

Foundation Row: (back of work) k1, p1, k1, p6, k1, p1, purl last stitch of band together with the next open stitch of the crown.
Row 1: (front) p1, k1, p1, make cable, p1,k1, p1
Row 2: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Row 3: k2, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 4: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Row 5: slip next stitch of crown onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the first stitch of the band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 6: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, k1
Row 7: slip next stitch of crown onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the first stitch of the band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 8: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Repeat rows 3-8 around the crown of the hat.
Last Row: Insert needle into first stitch worked from crown & pull up a stitch, knit together with first stitch of band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1. Do not bind off. Graft the cast on row with the final row.

You will make 3 rows of band for every 2 stitches of the crown. Small: 100 rows. Large: 108 rows.

Ribbed edge:
With smaller needles, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows on the lower edge of the band. sm: 75, lg: 81 Pick up on more to make an even number of total stitches. K1, P1 in rounds until you have 1.25 (med. 1.5, lg 1.75, xl 2) inches and cast off.

make a pompom if you like and attach it to the crown.

Jasper Socks

Jasper socks are made with a bulky thick and thin yarn and are so named because I knitted one on the way from Lake Louise to Jasper, and the other on the way back. They're perfect for winter sports, or curling up by the fire with a book- or a bag of marshmallows. They take less than three hours per sock, from gauge swatch to weaving in the last little tail.

I have not actually made the men's size in this yarn but I have made the same proportions in other yarns so I believe it will work. If the feet which will be wearing these are smaller (or larger) than ladies shoe size 7-9 or men's shoe size 9-11, consider decreasing (or increasing) the length of the sole by about a quarter inch for each size change.

This pattern is for personal use only. Please share this pattern by directing your friends to my site.

Sizes:
Ladies' and Mens' (changes for Men's in brackets)

Materials:
Napier by Sean Sheep, 2 (3) balls in wine.
5mm (size 8) double pointed needles or size needed for gauge
stitch holder
tapestry needle

Gauge:
17 sts and 21 rows = 4" in stocking stitch

Abbreviations used:
k2tog: knit next two stitches together
p2tog: purl next two stitches together
ssk: slip next two stitches knitwise, insert left-hand needle, knit them together.

Cuff:
Cast on 32(36) stitches with 10(12) on 1st needle, 10(12) on 2nd needle, and 12(12) on 3rd needle. Place a marker on your 1st needle. Working in the round, k1,p1 for 10 rounds. Knit 11 more rounds. (If you want a cuff longer than 4", you may need an extra ball of yarn). Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail.

Heel Shaping:
With marker for first needle facing you, slip 8(9) sts from 1st needle onto one needle, and 8(9) sts from 3rd needle on the same needle. Place 16(18) stitches onto a holder. Your marker should be in the middle of the needle. With wrong side facing you, work next section back and forth:
Row 1: Sl 1, purl to end of needle
Row 2: Sl 1, knit to end of needle
Repeat these two rows until you have 2"(2.25") Wrong side facing for next row.
Row 1: Sl 1, p8(9), p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: sl 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn
Row 3: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 4: Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn
Row 5: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 6: Sl 1, k7, ssk, k1(2)

You should now have 10(12) sts on your needle and the right side of your work facing you.

Instep:
You will go back to working in the round.
With 1st needle, pick up and knit 8(10) sts up the edge of the heel. With 2nd needle, knit across 16(18) sts on the holder. With 3rd needle, pick up and knit 8(10)sts down the the heel and 5(6) sts from the next needle. Slip the other 5(6) sts from this needle onto your 1st needle. You now have 13 (16) sts on your 1st needle, 16(18) sts on your second needle and 13(16)sts on your third needle. 42(48) sts in total.

Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, k1. needle 2: knit. needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these two rounds 5(7) times in total for a remainder of 8(9) sts on 1st needle, 16(18) sts on 2nd needle and 8(9)sts on 3rd needle. 32(36) sts in total.

Knit even in rounds until work measures 5.5" (6.5" )from the picked up stitches. Note: If you happen to have the intended foot handy, the actual length should be the distance (in a straight line, not the diagonal) from the middle of the anklebone to between the knuckles of the big toe.

Toe shaping:
Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds 4(5) times for a remainder of 16 sts. 4 on 1st needle, 8 on 2nd needle, 4 on 3rd needle. Knit the 4 sts from the first needle onto the third needle. Break the yarn leaving a long tail and use this to graft the toe together.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams.


These are the men's socks, made with SWS by Patons. (Totally different gauge; don't substitute.) I put a slip stitch rib on the heels, just for a change.

Baby Booties to Match Berry Sweater

April 28, 2011
Errata: For the large size of booties on the instep, it should read:
Row 1: k20(24), k2tog, sl 1, bring yarn to front (byf), turn work
It originally read (25).
I am sorry for the inconvenience. I am working on a downloadable PDF for this pattern, with clearer instructions and corrections.

More Errata:
The increase instructions have been confusing, so I have clarified the increase instructions to make it easier to follow.


Booties:

Size: Small (3-6 months) and large (6-12 months). (Changes for large size are in brackets)

Materials:
1 pair 4mm (size 6) needles and 3.75 needles (for ribbed top)
1 ball Microspun, in Magenta or French Vanilla (leftovers from sweater will be more than sufficient)
tapestry needle
contrasting color ribbon (if desired), about 2 feet per bootie.

Pattern Notes:
•Worked starting from sole.
•Increases are worked by picking up the horizontal bar between the next two stitches and knitting into the back of it. (M1)
•Instructions are given for a lace top and a ribbed top.
•Leave a long yarn end after casting off for easier seam sewing.
•ssk is: slip next two stitches onto right needle knitwise, insert left hand needle back into stitches, and knit together.

Sole & Toe shaping:
Cast on 23(29) sts
Knit 2 rows
Row 3: k11(14), M1, k1, M1, k11(14)
Row 4: k1, M1, k23(29), M1, k1
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: K12(15), M1, k3, M1, k12(15)
Row 7: k1, M1, k27(33), M1, k1
Row 8: knit
Row 9: k13(16), M1, k5, M1, k13(16)
•small size: knit until piece measures 1.5 inches.•
•large size:
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: k16, M1, k7,M1, k16.
Knit until piece measures 1.75 inches.•


Instep:
Row 1: k20(24), k2tog, sl 1, bring yarn to front (byf), turn work
Row 2: sl 1,k6(8), k2 tog, sl 1, byf, turn work
Repeat Row 2 until you have 23(29) sts left. Knit to end of row. (Large: increase one stitch at the end of this row.)


Lace top:
Row 1: k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2* Repeat
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k1, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk* repeat to last st, k1
Row 4: Purl

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 times for small, 5 times for large. Cast off with a larger size needle.


Ribbed top:
Change to 3.75 mm needles and CC yarn.
Work a k1, p1 rib for 2.5(3) inches. Cast off with a larger size needle. For a seamless top which can be folded over (as shown), switch to double-pointed needles, inc 1 st, and work in the round.

Finishing:
Sew seams. Weave in yarn ends. Affix ribbon to bootie securely.

This pattern is for personal use only. If you would like to share it, send your friends to this site. Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams

Berries & Cream Baby Sweater

Please note that this pattern is my original design and may be used for personal use only. If you wish to share this with friends, please direct them to my site.



Berries & Cream Baby Sweater

Size: 9-12 months
Finished chest will be 25"

Materials:
•Lion Brand Microspun: 3 balls MC (Fuchsia) and 1 ball CC (French Vanilla) or colors of your choice.
•3.75 mm (size 5) & 4 mm (size 6) needles (one set each)
•4 buttons
•tapestry needle

Gauge:
24 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) over Berry Stitch pattern
32 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Berry Stitch:
multiple of 4 stitches.
* Row 1: *(K1, yo, k1) in same stitch, p3 tog; repeat from *. (Wrong side row.)
* Row 2: *K1, p3; repeat from *.
* Row 3: *K3, p1; repeat from *. (You will be knitting all knit stitches and purling all purl stitches.)
* Row 4: *P1, k3; repeat from *. (You will be purling all knit stitches and knitting all purl stitches.)
* Row 5: *P3 tog, (k1, yo, k1) in same stitch, ; repeat from *.
* Row 6: *P3, k1; repeat from *.
* Row 7: *P1, k3; repeat from *.
* Row 8: *k3, p1; repeat from *.

Pattern notes: When making decreases for the armholes, count your stitches on each decrease row. This stitch pattern can screw up the number of stitches if you're not careful. There is a selvedge stitch at each end of every piece.

BACK
With CC and smaller size needles, cast on 70 sts. Knit 6 rows. End off CC and join MC. Switch to larger needles. Knit 1 row.
Next row: (wrong side) k1, begin berry stitch, work until last stitch, k1. Continue in this manner until work measures 5.5 inches from beginning.
•Armhole shaping:
Bind of 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*Next Row: dec 1st at each end of row. Work next row even.* Repeat from * 4 more times. 56 sts remaining.
Continue knitting in pattern until work measures 10.5 inches from the beginning.
•Neck shaping:
Work 18, cast off 18, work 18.
N.R.: Work 18
N.R.: Dec 2 sts, (at neck edge) work 16
N.R.:Work 16
Cast off
Join yarn to other shoulder and work the same way.

Left Front
With CC and smaller size needles, cast on 34 sts. Knit 6 rows. Join MC, switch to larger needles and knit 1 row.
N.R.: K1, beg berry stitch, work till last stitch, k1.
Continue knitting in pattern until work measures 5.5 inches from beginning. Have the right side facing for the next row.
•Armhole shaping:
Row 1:Bind off 3 sts, knit in pattern to end. (31 sts)
2: dec 1 st at end of row (30 sts)
3: work even
4: dec 1 st at end of row (29 sts)
5: work even
6: dec 1 st at end of row (28 sts)
7: work even
8: dec 1 st at end of row (27 sts)
9: work even
10: dec 1 st at end of row (26 sts)
Work 4 inches (from beginning of armhole.) Wrong side facing for next row.
•Neck Shaping:
Row 1: Cast off 4 sts at beg of row
2: Work even
3: Cast off 3 sts at beg of row
4: Work Even
5: Dec 1 st at neck edge
6: Work even
7: Dec 1 st at neck edge
8: Work even
9: Dec 1 st at neck edge (16 sts left)
Cast off.

Right Front
Make the same as left front but start the armhole shaping on the wrong side and the neck shaping on the right side.

Sleeve (make 2)
Cast on 38 sts in CC with smaller needles, knit 6 rows. End CC. Join MC and switch to larger needles.
N.R.: k1, inc1, knit to last 2 sts, inc1, k1
Now begin berry stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of every fourth row until you have 64 sts. Work even until piece measures 7 inches.
Bind of 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*Next Row: dec 1st at each end of row. Work next row even.* Repeat from * 4 more times. 48 sts remaining. Piece should measure 8.5 inches. Add a few rows if you are short.

Finishing
With tapestry needle, sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves onto body. Sew side seams.
•Left front band: With right side of work facing and with smaller needles, join CC and pick up 54 sts evenly starting from the collar. Knit 7 rows. Cast off.
•Right front band: With right side of work facing and with smaller needles, join CC and pick up 54 sts evenly starting from the bottom. Knit 3 rows. Next row: K7, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k3. Knit 3 rows. Cast off.
•Neckband: With right side facing and smaller needles, join CC and pick up 20 stitches from right front to shoulder, 28 sts across back, and 20 sts from left shoulder to the left front. Knit 5 rows. Cast off.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams. For personal use only, and please link original url source.