Tangle Knits

Mostly About Spinning

2012-01-26T10:59:00.004-07:00

This January I joined another spinning challenge, 12 pounds in 2012. Last year I joined the eleven pound challenge, but only made it up to nine pounds. It was fun, although I did find at one point I was rushing through my yarns and not enjoying the process as much. This year, I joined the challenge, but I am totally enamored with Russian spinning that I doubt very much I will make it.

I took a class from Caroline of Ancient Arts Fibre Crafts and ended up coming home with this cherry wood Russian spindle:
All wrapped up in yak, cashmere, and alpaca.

I spun up some camel, merino, bamboo and a hank of yak, silk, wool and bison. I can't wait to get started on the other rovings, and knit up my new, beautiful yarns.

This year I want to explore the different bare fibers, to compare breeds and spinning styles. January is all about merino. I have some olive and brown top I am spinning.

I also took some dyed merino top and spun it into singles, and carded and spun some corriedale. The difference between the fibers is amazing! Corridale is so long, lustrous, and lofty compared to the merino. I like merino but I have fallen in love with corriedale.

The picture shows the worsted merino singles in blue, about 4 ounces and 350 yards. The woolen corriedale is green, 2 ply, 525 yards and also 4 ounces. Amazing difference, but I wonder how much of it is due to the woolen vs. worsted method? I want to get some combed corriedale top to see how it compares to the carded rolags.

And for my final spinning poison, somehow 100 grams of brown cotton fell in my lap a Make One's trunk show of Ancient Arts Fibres on Saturday. The staple is super short but I love, love, love spinning it. I also love the finished yarn so much better than a mercerized cotton that I am more than willing to spin enough of it to make... this? I'll keep you posted.

Almeda Fingerless Gloves

2011-12-03T11:43:00.002-07:00

This pattern is for a pair of reversible gloves. The pattern uses slipped stitches to produce a diamond quilted look on one side, and a waffle stitch on the other. The stitch pattern is particularly nice for variegated and handspun yarns which may have a tendency to pool.

This pink and yellow pair was made using some of my handspun yarn. The fiber was from Sweet Sheep, colorway Indian Spice, a merino/bamboo blend, spun to a 2-ply DK. The pair used 50 grams, or 122 yards.

I then tested the pattern with Mirasol Hacho, (color 314) which knitted up beautifully, using a little more than one 50 gram hank.

This pattern has not been tested by anyone but me. If there are errors, please let me know. The pattern for these cute and warm mitts is here, but you can also download now in PDF format.

Due to the nature of the stitch pattern, please note that:
1. Your beginning of round will shift before you get to the thumb gusset on each rnd 4.
2.It knits up to a much tighter gauge than one might expect from a DK. I also used Kollage square needles to knit these, so be sure to check your gauge before knitting.

Reversible Fingerless Gloves

DK weight yarn, approximately 60 grams
4mm needles

Gauge: 28 sts/ 4 inches over pattern stitch.

7 (7.5, 8) inch circumference, to fit hand 8 (8.5, 9) inches around.
cast on 48 (52, 56) sts

Rnd 1: k1,p1
Rnd 2: sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1
rnd 3: k1,p1
rnd 4: sl1 purlwise, p1. slip these sts onto last needle. *sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1*

Repeat rounds 3 & 4 until you have worked 2.5 (2.75, 3) inches.
Thumb Gusset:
Rnd 1: *k1, p1* repeat until you have 2 sts left, then k1, pm, m1,k1,m1, pm
Rnd 2: k1, p1 *sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1* repeat to last st before marker, k1, slip marker, k3, slip marker.
Rnd 3: k1, *p1,k1*, slip marker, k3, slip marker.
Rnd 4: *sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1* repeat to last 3 sts before marker, sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, slip marker, k3, slip marker.
Rnd 5: k1, *p1,k1*, slip marker, k1,m1,k1,m1,k1, slip marker
Rnd 6: k1, p1 *sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1* repeat to last st before marker, k1, slip marker, k5, slip marker.
Rnd 7: k1, *p1,k1*, slip marker, k5, slip marker.
Rnd 8: *sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1* repeat to last 3 sts before marker, sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, slip marker, 5, slip marker.
Rnd 9: k1, *p1,k1*, slip marker, k2,m1,k1,m1,k2, slip marker

Continue in this manner, increasing two stitches every fourth row until you have 11, (13, 13) sts in between the markers, ending with:
*sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1* repeat to last 3 sts before marker, sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, slip marker, k11 (13,13), slip marker.

Next rnd: k1, *p1,k1* slip next 11 (13, 13) sts onto a holder. These will be thumb sts. Cast on one stitch for inner thumb.

Upper Hand:
rnd 1: sl1 purlwise, p1. slip these sts onto last needle. *sl1 knitwise, kfb, k1, psso 3 sts, p1*
rnd 2: k1,p1

Repeat these two rounds for 1.5 (1.75, 2) inches, ending with round 1.
Cast off in k1,p1.

Thumb:
Slip thumb gusset stitches onto dpn’s. Pick up two stitches from inner thumb, and work 6 rounds in garter stitch. Cast off.

Winter, Winter, Winter

2011-04-28T10:00:00.000-06:00

Here I am, editing the baby bootie pattern, and I looked out the window to see... more snow. Really. The last of the snow has just melted off the back yard (though it's admittedly still clinging to spots in the north-facing front yard) and here we are, back to square one.

We are not amused. If it snows again next week, I can make t-shirts which will read: "I SURVIVED THE NINE MONTH WINTER." Yes, we often get a dump of snow in May, but we don't usually have snow cover from October through April. I'm going to end the weather rant now, and simply note that I noticed some tulips and daffodils beginning to sprout by the back door. It's exciting, because this is a new house for us, and since there was already snow cover when we moved in (see above) I don't know what surprises may sprout.

So, as one might imagine, I am still knitting and designing wintery sorts of things. I noticed the local supply of hats was getting low, so I dove into the stash and came out with some Berroco "Blackstone Tweed" and Mirasol "Tika". Then I flipped through my stitch dictionaries until I found a nice wave pattern. I had to tweak it slightly to make it work how I wanted.

(Berroco Ultra Alpaca.)

I think the greatest thing about this stitch pattern is that the beginning and end of round are virtually invisible. That means there is no jog or fancy slip stitches needed to avoid a jog.

This hat was done bottom-up, with a doubled hem for extra warmth. Oddly enough, The Mirasol Tika is labeled DK weight, but as I knit it, I would not peg it at anything less than a worsted.

This one was done top down, and the hem turned out to be a problem. The yarn is much softer than it looks, and pulls apart if you so much as look at it funny. Making a sewn bind off was out of the question. I ended up doing a blend of the k2tog and regular cast off.

I settled on the bottom up design, with the doubled brim. I had a hat making blitz, hoping that I could write a pattern that would work. It is available for download on Ravelry. This one is a $3, although I'll still offer some free patterns in the future. This pattern has detailed instructions for making the doubled brim, along with clear photos. It has instructions for an alternate rolled brim. The pattern is also perfect for someone new to stranded knitting, as there is only one color needed for the crown of the hat.

This one was made out of Garnstudio DROPS Nepal. It is a little bulkier yarn than the other three, but knit to the correct tension, it keeps out the wind even better.

You can use the link below, or go to the pattern page on Ravelry to get more details.

Only Begotten Knitter

2011-03-16T10:59:00.004-06:00

It started with Ian pestering me: "When can I learn to spin on the wheel? When? Can we do it now?"

I pulled out some pencil roving from Custom Woolen Mills, and after he had spun up some singles, we set the twist and wound it into a ball. Ian started knitting.

He knit until bedtime, and I said, "Time to put it away," and he replied,
"Just one more row? Please?"

At which point I broke out in an evil cackle (which freaked everyone out, even the dog), knowing above all that he has now become... my only begotten knitter.

That's Too Small

2010-09-18T10:42:00.004-06:00

We have a big book from the library about science on our table, and Benny was flipping through it this morning. He came to the section on human biology, flipping past the detailed diagram of a neuron and axon (which he thought was a squid and expressed relief that it was only a picture)and on to the human reproductive page. There was a lifelike, detailed picture of a mature fetus in the womb.

He was interested in the umbilical cord. "Is that the baby's toy?" he asked. I explained that it brings food and oxygen to help the baby grow. (And I was thinking, no, sweetheart, the baby's toy is Mommy's bladder.) Then I pointed out the cervix and birth canal, explaining that they expand to fit around the baby's head when he is ready to be born.

"What?" he said. "The baby can't come out of there. It's too small."

Tell me about it, kid.

Spinning...

2010-09-17T10:27:00.005-06:00

Well, since classes began on Sept. 7, I haven't had much time for anything but reading, a little (and I mean a really tiny little bit) of knitting, and some spinning.

I was very motivated to finish this:

I did most of the plying at last Saturday's "Spin In" at Make one. When all was said and done I had 118 grams and 740 yards of silk. No wonder it took me nearly all summer to finish.

Next I got started on this, which seemed to take no time at all. I began on Sunday and finished plying today.

190 grams, 260 yards, spun woolen. I worked on my long draw, which I found soothing but it's pretty uneven. Oh darn, I'll have to practice some more.

You see that pretty shiny rainbow stuff combed into the black top? This is proof that my inner child is alive and well, and pretty pleased overall with my fiber love. I know several children who would love to have this but I intend to adorn my own head with it. I'll probably knit it first. My inner child isn't THAT loud.

The weather has been miserable and rainy for what feels like forever but I think actually started around the long weekend, which is now a couple of weeks of cold, wet weariness. They days are starting to blur together now, so I can't remember exactly which day it happened, but I got home amid a chilly drizzle and found a fat, long-awaited and squishy package waiting for me from Spunky Eclectic. Guess what was inside?

Sunshine! In 4 oz batts! The picture really doesn't do it justice. I was not really certain about getting orange at first, since it's not my favorite colour, but I'm so glad I went for something outside my usual purple zone.

There were also four ounces of some soft, sleek, Merino/Yak:

This is definitely better than ice cream:

and I think it will come in handy around exam time... so soothing, soft and therapeutic to touch. They sell it by the ounce, so if this spins up as beautifully as I think it will, I can get some more... and more...

I finished up the Octesian shawl.

Sometime in the near future, I'll chart out the pattern and get it test knit. However, all non-college projects are on the back burner, so no promises about getting it done before Christmas.

However, this gives me time to figure out whether I want to tweak the patten a little, maybe add more arrow lace and make the border deeper? What do you think?

Waterton

2010-08-19T10:14:00.002-06:00

First of all, let me say that I did wash and soak my owls sweater, which made a huge difference. It's still prickly and not what I would have chosen for next to the skin wear, but not unwearable.

The puppy likes it too.

The fit is, like I said, almost perfect. I would have liked a turtleneck but rejected the idea when I realized how itchy it was.

I think I've decided not to add owl eyes.
The boys would both like to have an owl sweater of their own, so it looks like I'll be knitting more of these which will be great.

This weekend marked our 12th anniversary so we headed out to Waterton National Park, which is in southern Alberta across the US border from Glacier National Park.

Our first stop was the Prince of Wales hotel:

It's a "vintage" place and Ian was delighted with it. He really wanted to ride the antiquated elevator, which requires an operator, but as we were not staying there he didn't get to try it.

Our hotel had a bunch of chalet-style buildings which looked more interesting from the outside than they were on the inside. Each room was named after an animal or bird. Guess what ours was? "Great Horned Owl", of course.

We headed out to explore and ended up on the beach. I spent time honing my rock-skipping skills, and told the boys not to go in the water.

I do wonder why I said that, as they then had a great time getting soaked.

Benny found some flowers to give me. Someone had picked them and thrown them in the water, and Benny "rescued" them.

I suppose someone picked them and then was told it's illegal to pick flowers in a National Park. I made sure Benny understood he couldn't get me any more.

The next morning we went to the Zum Cafe for breakfast.

Ian was pretty excited about all the license plates and desperately wanted one to take home. Hot chocolate was the only treat in the offing, though.

We wandered down the main street and found some pretty things.

We spent some more time at the beach, and this time only one boy was really interested in getting wet.

"It's just the same temperature as the Elbow River," he said. Yes, I know. It couldn't be much colder than a glacier-fed stream, otherwise it'd be frozen.

Ian built a little lake.

We had a good time and I only wish we could have stayed a little longer and done more.

Ian began school this week, but hopefully we'll get out somewhere for another weekend before winter locks in.

A Hooting Good Time

2010-08-10T11:51:00.008-06:00

For my birthday on the first, I thought I'd set aside any startitis guilt and cast on something simple and chunky to balance out all the lace. I thought I'd just start a sleeve as a gauge swatch, and a couple of hours later my ball of yarn was gone and I had a sleeve. This was such a novelty that I was entirely compelled to knit a second sleeve the next day. In fact it went so fast that this is the only picture of the work in progress that I have.

The dog is our newest family addition, and despite the fact she's only been around for a couple of months she know that chewing yarn or mouthing fiber means instant death. (Ok, it means she can't sit on my lap which for her seems to be just as bad.) So we cuddle in with knitting and she snuggles while I spin, even though silk turns out to be her favorite flavor. (shudder).

I have, however, discovered that the training is not yet complete:

(Why my Chia-Goo needles? Why not the cheap, splintery Wal-Mart ones?)

At any rate, my sweater was getting along so well I was sure there would be serious repercussions as the Universe was clearly out of balance. However, I washed the sleeve and blocked it, and it came out just right. The measurements and gauge came together like something out of a story book, and the chart gave me no grief. I added a few rows before the owls since some people had mentioned that they needed more armpit space, got through the owls, and decided to try it on to see if it was all coming together right.

It fit perfectly and I knew I didn't need to change a thing. Except, well. Except it itches.

This is a totally gorgeous sweater. I love it and it fits me perfectly. And I can hardly stand to have it on.

Ravelry project link

I'm going to try a Eucalan wash, and a hair conditioner wash, and any other wash anyone might think would help. But really, even if nothing helps, I'll be brave. I'll buy a long-sleeved undershirt and wear this sweater on the coldest, most miserable nights of winter, and hope that the Universe is satisfied by providing me with a lovely warm sweater that I can't wear and won't sabotage my next project...

I'm heading out to find some buttons for the owl eyes, and once those are on and the sweater doesn't make me want to rip off my own skin, I'll have some pictures of it on me. It's really stunning.

Knitting and Spinning

2010-07-30T10:36:00.002-06:00

It has been forever and a day since I blogged properly, and believe me it was a busy year and a bit. I chose knitting over blogging when I had any time. I'd love to share what I've been up to.

In the middle of July, I took a great shawl design class from Miriam Felton, and knit through about half of this in the class:

I pondered a name for a while, wanting to reference the octagonal shape and the diamonds, and while listening to Narnia with the kids, and the name Octesian struck me as fitting. Now I am working on a laceweight version which is taking forever and a day, but when it is done I will have a pattern and will have someone test-knit it.

I used the lovely Zephyr laceweight, 50% merino, 50% silk. It knits up like a dream and is super soft.

Last fall I added to my personal arsenal of serenity and learned to spin; and this spring I bought a wheel (a Schacht Ladybug) and have been spinning all sorts of fun things since. My present project is some delicious tussah silk:

Despite it's luscious allure I'm finding it difficult to stick with this. It's taking forever since I'm spinning it very fine, and I intend to ply it.

On a final note, I have begun a project which is nothing but sheer folly and the creation of a UFO, but I can't seem to help myself. I enjoy knitting garter stitch so much, that I have begun this, the Blanket of Doom.

With Patons Kroy, on 3mm needles. I think I need a lobotomy. According to my calculations, I'll need 64 - 50g balls of this yarn to finish an afghan. I think in the end I'll make a baby blanket and call it a day. I do love the color changes in this yarn and to be honest I love this pattern, as simple as it is. Here is the link to the pattern on Ravelry, if you would like to make your own Blanket of Doom.

Janet

2010-07-27T14:49:00.004-06:00

Well, after quite a long hiatus from blogging, and even longer from designing- or rather, taking notes and writing stuff up- here I am again with another hat pattern. Janet is a very special person and lovely friend, and when I had to go away I decided to knit her a hat. A special hat. So I scoured Ravelry for just the right hat and it... it wasn't there, not quite. I found a stitch pattern I liked and dove in with all my knitterly abandon, even marking down what I was doing with the half-formed notion of... another blog post, another design.

I have sadly not got myself charting software and my hard drive was wiped out so even my Excel is gone- however the urge to post has come over me and I will add a chart as soon as it is ready.

This pattern has not been proofread by anyone other than myself. I believe I got all the kinks out but if you see something wrong, please let me know.

This tam is worked in the round from the brim to the crown. A series of well placed decreases creates a floret at the crown from the lace pattern.

Materials:

-Worsted weight wool or wool blend, about 100 grams

I used "Alpaca Love" by Stitch Nation by Debbie Stoller. One ball was enough for gauge swatch and hat, with barely twelve inches left over. I'd suggest getting two balls.

-16 inch circular needles, size 5 (3.75mm) and 7 (4.5mm)

-4 double pointed needles, size 7 (4.5mm)

or size needed to get gauge

-stitch markers

-yarn needle

Gauge:

17 sts and 26 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles

Size: To fit adult women's heads. The ribbing will stretch to fit fairly large noggins and big hair; mine is 21 inches around which I've heard is on the small side.

Lace Pattern as worked in the round:

repeat of 12 sts

rnd 1: k1, ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog

rnd 2: k1, ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog

rnd 3: k1, ssk, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k2tog

rnd 4: k1, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog

rnd 5: k1, yo, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, yo

rnd 6: k2, yo, k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2, yo, k1

rnd 7: k3, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, yo, k2

rnd 8: k4, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k3

Cast on 90 sts onto size 5 circular and join, being careful not to twist sts. Place marker for beginning of round. K1,P1 for 8 rounds

Next Round:

change to size 7 circular needle

*k5, m1* repeat 18 times for a total of 108 sts.

Next Round:

begin lace pattern, making 9 repeats around hat.

Work the 8 rows, 4 times for a slouchy tam, 3 times for a less slouchy beret or a smaller head.

This one has four repeats and is fairly slouchy.

Begin crown shaping, switching to dpn's when stitches become too few to fit on circular.

rnd 1: *k1, ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog* 3 times, placing marker at beginning of each section. (102 sts)

rnd 2: *k1, ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog* 3 times (96 sts)

rnd 3: *k1, ssk, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k2tog* 3 times (90 sts)

rnd 4: *k1, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog* 3 times (84 sts)

rnd 5: *k4, k2tog, k1, ssk, k4, cdd, k4, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3* 3 times (66 sts)

rnd 6: *k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2* 3 times (54 sts)

rnd 7: *k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1* 3 times (42 sts)

rnd 8: *k1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk* 3 times (30 sts)

rnd 9: *k1, k3tog, cdd, k3tog,* 3 times (12 sts)

rnd 10: k12

rnd 11: k2tog 6 times (6 sts)

Cut yarn and thread with yarn needle through six remaining stitches, drawing them closed. Tie off yarn, weave in ends. Block hat to shape

on a plate and enjoy!

Find my project on Ravelry

Abbreviations:

k: knit

yo: bring yarn over needle

k2tog: knit next two stitches into one

k3tog: knit next three stitches into one

ssk: slip next two stitches knitwise, slip back to left hand needle and knit together

m1: insert needle into the horizontal bar between the next two stitches, pick it up and knit it twisted (to avoid a hole).

cdd: centered double decrease: insert needle into next two stitches as if to knit them together. Slip them onto right hand needle and knit the next stitch. Pass the slipped stitches over the it.

I Think I Believe in Spring

2009-04-08T18:27:00.003-06:00

Knitting the leaves on my pretty new socks and the lovely warm air lured me outside to survey my neglected flowerbeds. As I began clearing away leaves, Ian popped his head outside and we had a Tom Sawyer moment. Soon we were doing this:

It was wonderful to see that the bulbs were trying very hard to come up. I saw evidence of crocuses, grape hyacinth, and campanula trying to make some headway. The real winners in the garden are these pushkinia:

I had almost given up hope. It's been nasty.

Always the first up, first to bloom, and the loveliest snowdrop type flowers will be bursting out after a few more warm days.

The sun was shining brightly on them so they look like they're glowing.

I also realized yesterday that I am going to have to work much faster on this navy scarf - I need those needles for the Myrtle Leaf Shawl (ravelry link) from Victorian Lace Today. I expect it to be long and involved, and wonderful.

I Know How To Do That

2009-02-24T08:23:00.005-07:00

On Sunday, we were curled up on the couch together, Ian and I, and he was mesmerized watching me knit. He, being a sophisticated eight year old, knows everything there is, and if he doesn't, "my mind tells me". It was no surprise when he stated,
"I know how to do that."

He began wiggling his hands around in a passable imitation of the smooth movements he'd been watching for the last half hour. So I decided the time was ripe to hand him a pair of needles and some yarn. I taught him a basic cast on, and he proceeded to fill the needle with it.

He is catching on pretty quickly and I'm prouder of him than I can even express. And guess what? All he wants to do now is knit. He even sometimes forgets to dress up in his knight costume before he starts.

The scarf in progress:

He, of course, is focused on the day when he will knit his own fish hat. So am I, actually. Somebody else to knit up all my stash.

Busted!

2009-02-10T14:34:00.002-07:00

I'm starting my spring clean here a little early, and that means I've got to clear out old stash. I've been knitting & crocheting for 10 years now, and have lived in this home for nearly seven years... so it's long overdue. I cleared out space in my upstairs stash last fall (for new yarn, not using up old yarn of course), when I started my Christmukkah knitting- that is, the stash in the white bins. And a little bit from the box in the closet.

Last night I cleared out the furnace room. I won't miss the yarn, but the part that bothered me was finding four abandoned projects. Three of them were hideous (in my defense, my son picked out the yarn for one. I got tired of putting on my sunglasses to knit) and for one I had run out of yarn. One count of poor planning (and then abandoning the yarn), and three counts of idiocy. That's a little disheartening but they were really, really old projects, and I'm much better at controlling my urge to buy gaudy yarns.

Today I moved my white bins into the furnace room and tried to empty the space in the laundry room... and take a close look at what's in the linen closet... and then there's that little space behind the desk... the long and short of it is, good project or bad project, cute or ugly, I found a gazillion more UFO's (my husband likes to call them yarn orphans) and an ugly truth about myself. I usually don't finish things. (Ok, I do have some wonderful FO's & I remeber giving lots of them as gifts...) And no matter how much I have, I keep on adding, adding, adding until I get to the point where I can't imagine even trying to use up everything I have. I realized this is not just about yarn, it runs much deeper into every nook and cranny of myself... and it's worth repenting of, I think...

Even though the Malabrigo Lace is calling to me from its drawer I think I am going to do some serious stashbusting and that will probably involve many socks, hats and mitts because I also seem to have difficulty buying more than a couple of balls of any one thing at a time. Except, apparently, chenille. Yikes! What do I do with five pounds of chenille in various weights? And when I bought all that cotton, how many dishcloths did I think the world could USE?

I think I can thank Ravelry for being a place where I can keep on top of myself and stay on track with my stash & projects- I finished (almost) all my gift knitting last fall, thanks to my Ravelry page.

er... anyone want some purple chenille? White? Pink? Blue? Teal?....

Helen's Beret

2008-12-26T13:56:00.017-07:00

Errata: Upon wearing & stretching of the beret & realizing the effect of bamboo's lack of "springiness" I have included sizing for a smaller size hat (now called "medium") and plan to size it for small as well.

Materials:
-3 balls of Bernat Bamboo Natural Blends
-set of size 8 (5mm) double pointed needles
-16 inch circular needle, size 8 (5mm)
-set of size 7 (4.5mm) dpn's OR 16 inch circular needle

Gauge:
12 sts & 24 rows = 4 inches (10cm)

Size:
women's medium (21 inches) and large (23 inches), 8.5 inches from crown to edge. Changes for large are in parentheses.

Notes:
The hat is worked in the round from the crown down. I switched from dpn's to a 16 inch circular at about row 24. Make sure you have the same gauge or you will have to make adjustments to achieve good results. To make a more fitted, less slouchy beret, omit rows 39-46. To make a slouchier beret, repeat rows 33-38 again after row 46. If you find a mistake in this pattern, leave a comment!

Abbreviations:
m1: pick up the horizontal strand between the next two stitches and knit it from the back (so it twists and doesn't make a hole.)

m1p: pick up the horizontal strand between the next two stitches and purl it from the back (so it twists and doesn't make a hole.)

C4F: (cable 4 front) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 2, knit 2 stitches from cable needle.

C3F: (cross 3 front) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, k2 sts from cable needle

C3B: (cross 3 back) slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, p1 st from cable needle

C4R: (cross 4 right) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, p2 from cable needle

C4L: (cross 4 left) slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p2, k2 from cable needle

Instructions:
Cast 4 stitches onto a 5mm dpn. Keep the same side facing you and slide the stitches to the other end (as if you were making I-cord.)

Row 1: Use the rest of your dpn's, and knit into the front and back of each stitch.
Row 2: p 8
Row 3: *p1, m1p* 8 times
Row 4: p 16
Row 5: *p2, m1p* 8 times
Row 6: p 24
Row 7: *p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 8: *p1, m1, k1, m1, k1, p1* 8 times
Row 9: *p1, k4, p1, m1p* 8 times
Row 10: *p1, C4F, p2* 8 times
Row 11: *p1, k4, p2, m1p* 8 times
Row 12: *p1, C4F, p3* 8 times
Row 13: *p1, k4, p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 14: *C3B, C3F, p3* 8 times
Row 15: *k2, p2, k2, p3, m1p* 8 times
Row 16: *C3F, C3B, p4* 8 times
Row 17: *p1,m1p, k4, p5* 8 times
Row 18: *p2, C4F, p5* 8 times
Row 19: *p2, k4, p5, m1p* 8 times
Row 20: *C4R, C4L, p4* 8 times
Row 21: *k2, p4, k2, p4, m1p* 8 times
Row 22: *k2, p4, k2, p5* 8 times
Row 23: *k2, p4, k2, p5, m1p* 8 times
Row 24: *C4L, C4R, p6* 8 times
Row 25: *p2, k4, p8, m1p* 8 times
Row 26: *p2, C4F, p9* 8 times
Row 27: *p2, k4, p9, (m1p)* 8 times
Row 28: *p1, C3B, C3F, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 29: *p1, k2, p2, k2, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 30: *p1, C3F, C3B, p8 (9)* 8 times
Row 31: *p2, k4, p9 (10)* 8 times
Row 32: *p2, C4F, p9 (10)* 8 times
Row 33: as row 31
Row 34: as row 32
Row 35: as row 31
Row 36: as row 28
Row 37: as row 29
Row 38: as row 30
Row 39: as row 31
Row 40: as row 32
Row 41: as row 31
Row 42: *C4R, C4L, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 43: *k2, p4, k2, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 44: as row 43
Row 45: as row 43
Row 46: *C4L, C4R, p7 (8)* 8 times
Row 47: (medium size) *p2tog, k4, [p2tog] 2 times, p3tog, p2tog* 8 times
Row 47: (large size) *p2tog, k4, [p2tog, p1] 2 times, p2tog twice* 8 times

CHANGE TO 4.5mm NEEDLES
Row 48: *p1, C4F, [p1,k1] 2 (3) times* 8 times
Row 49: *p1, k4, [p1, k1] 2 (3) times* 8 times
Row 50: as row 49
Row 51: as row 48
Row 52: as row 49
Row 53: as row 49
Row 54: as row 48
Row 55: *p1, k1, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (3) times, k1* 8 times
Cast off stitches as they lie with a needle at least 2 sizes larger than the one you're using.

Pattern Copyright 2008, Rachel Abrams. If you like this pattern please send people to this site.

Braided Cable Hat

2008-10-27T12:45:00.007-06:00

Who says boys can't wear braids?

I've been going through my stash, looking for nice heavy yarns to make into hats and mitts for the nieces and nephews and came across a few random balls of Lion Brand Homespun. There's enough in one ball for a child's hat and mitts, and here is the hat pattern- mitts to follow.

Notes:
-The small and large sizes are made with needles in size 5 & 7, and the medium & extra large are made with needles in sizes 6 & 8, so gauge is very important to get the right size of hat.
-The small size makes a toddler size hat, medium child size 4-6, large child size 8-10, extra large, adult size. (this is a rough guide as my head fits the large size but then I have a small head and have always worn boy's large size.)
-The hat is worked from the crown down. If you tend to bind off tightly, either use a larger needle for your bind off, or consider working the hat from edge to crown instead, reversing the shaping. I use a Kitchener rib bind off on hats to keep the lower edge stretchy. The only place I know of that has instructions for this bind off (which is really very attractive, professional, and stretchy) is in the book Big Book of Knitting by Katharina Buss. It takes some time to master but it really is worth the effort.

Materials:
1 skein Lion Brand Homespun, any color
1 set of 5 size 5 (3.75mm) and 7 (4.5mm) double pointed needles if you are making the small or large size hat
1 set of 5 of size 6 (4mm) and 8 (5mm) double pointed needles if you are making the medium or extra large size hat
pompom maker

Gauge:
on size 7 needles: 14 sts / 4 inches in stocking stitch
on size 8 needles: 12 sts / 4 inches in stocking stitch

Abbreviations:
c4b: slip 2 stitches onto cable needle & hold at back of work, k2, knit stitches from cable needle
c4f: slip 2 stitches onto cable needle & hold at front of work, k2, knit stitches from cable needle
m1L: insert left-hand needle into the horizontal bar between the last stitch worked and the next stitch from front to back and knit into the back of it.

Cable braid:
over 6 sts
Row 1: k2, c4b
Row 2: purl
Row 3: c4f, k2
Row 4: purl

Instructions:
Crown:
(changes for large are in brackets)
Cast 6 sts onto 3 size 7 (or size 8 for med & xl) needles. Join and knit 6.
Round 1: *k1, m1L* 6 times
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3:(mark the beginning needle) *k2, m1L, k1, m1L, k1* 3 times
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *k3, m1L, k1, m1L, k2* 4 times
Round 6: Knit
Carry on in this manner until you have 66 (72) stitches. Do not bind off.

Braided Cable Band (Knitted on as you go):
Using an open cast on (so the stitches can be grafted later) cast on 12 sts onto same size of needles. (If you don't want to graft, you can always cast on and off in the usual way and sew the ends together but that does leave a bulky seam and tightens the hat a little.)

Foundation Row: (back of work) k1, p1, k1, p6, k1, p1, purl last stitch of band together with the next open stitch of the crown.
Row 1: (front) p1, k1, p1, make cable, p1,k1, p1
Row 2: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Row 3: k2, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 4: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Row 5: slip next stitch of crown onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the first stitch of the band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 6: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, k1
Row 7: slip next stitch of crown onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the first stitch of the band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1
Row 8: k1, p1, k1, make cable, k1, p1, purl the last stitch of band together with with next open stitch of the crown.
Repeat rows 3-8 around the crown of the hat.
Last Row: Insert needle into first stitch worked from crown & pull up a stitch, knit together with first stitch of band, k1, p1, make cable, p1, k1, p1. Do not bind off. Graft the cast on row with the final row.

You will make 3 rows of band for every 2 stitches of the crown. Small: 100 rows. Large: 108 rows.

Ribbed edge:
With smaller needles, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows on the lower edge of the band. sm: 75, lg: 81 Pick up on more to make an even number of total stitches. K1, P1 in rounds until you have 1.25 (med. 1.5, lg 1.75, xl 2) inches and cast off.

make a pompom if you like and attach it to the crown.

Shale Stitch Blanket

2008-10-07T08:42:00.005-06:00

The stitch for the blanket in the background of the Berry Sweater is Shale stitch. You can see it peeking out a bit on this pic. The best pic is here.

18 stitch repeat
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times
Row 4: knit

Don't forget to add your selvage stitches.

My blanket was done with Lion Brand Microspun, size 8 (5mm) needles in fuchsia, purple and turquoise, changing colors at row 1. I edged it with a crocheted crab stitch, I don't remember what size hook but probably I. I repeated the stitch 9 times, and carried on until it was big enough to cover the crib. I believe I used 2 balls of each color. I was a bit disappointed at first because it was so stretchy and floppy but when the baby was born it was perfect to wrap him up in and very very cozy; it became our favorite snuggle blanket.

Jasper Socks

2007-02-20T09:13:00.000-07:00

Jasper socks are made with a bulky thick and thin yarn and are so named because I knitted one on the way from Lake Louise to Jasper, and the other on the way back. They're perfect for winter sports, or curling up by the fire with a book- or a bag of marshmallows. They take less than three hours per sock, from gauge swatch to weaving in the last little tail.

I have not actually made the men's size in this yarn but I have made the same proportions in other yarns so I believe it will work. If the feet which will be wearing these are smaller (or larger) than ladies shoe size 7-9 or men's shoe size 9-11, consider decreasing (or increasing) the length of the sole by about a quarter inch for each size change.

This pattern is for personal use only. Please share this pattern by directing your friends to my site.

Sizes:
Ladies' and Mens' (changes for Men's in brackets)

Materials:
Napier by Sean Sheep, 2 (3) balls in wine.
5mm (size 8) double pointed needles or size needed for gauge
stitch holder
tapestry needle

Gauge:
17 sts and 21 rows = 4" in stocking stitch

Abbreviations used:
k2tog: knit next two stitches together
p2tog: purl next two stitches together
ssk: slip next two stitches knitwise, insert left-hand needle, knit them together.

Cuff:
Cast on 32(36) stitches with 10(12) on 1st needle, 10(12) on 2nd needle, and 12(12) on 3rd needle. Place a marker on your 1st needle. Working in the round, k1,p1 for 10 rounds. Knit 11 more rounds. (If you want a cuff longer than 4", you may need an extra ball of yarn). Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail.

Heel Shaping:
With marker for first needle facing you, slip 8(9) sts from 1st needle onto one needle, and 8(9) sts from 3rd needle on the same needle. Place 16(18) stitches onto a holder. Your marker should be in the middle of the needle. With wrong side facing you, work next section back and forth:
Row 1: Sl 1, purl to end of needle
Row 2: Sl 1, knit to end of needle
Repeat these two rows until you have 2"(2.25") Wrong side facing for next row.
Row 1: Sl 1, p8(9), p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: sl 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn
Row 3: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 4: Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn
Row 5: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 6: Sl 1, k7, ssk, k1(2)

You should now have 10(12) sts on your needle and the right side of your work facing you.

Instep:
You will go back to working in the round.
With 1st needle, pick up and knit 8(10) sts up the edge of the heel. With 2nd needle, knit across 16(18) sts on the holder. With 3rd needle, pick up and knit 8(10)sts down the the heel and 5(6) sts from the next needle. Slip the other 5(6) sts from this needle onto your 1st needle. You now have 13 (16) sts on your 1st needle, 16(18) sts on your second needle and 13(16)sts on your third needle. 42(48) sts in total.

Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, k1. needle 2: knit. needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these two rounds 5(7) times in total for a remainder of 8(9) sts on 1st needle, 16(18) sts on 2nd needle and 8(9)sts on 3rd needle. 32(36) sts in total.

Knit even in rounds until work measures 5.5" (6.5" )from the picked up stitches. Note: If you happen to have the intended foot handy, the actual length should be the distance (in a straight line, not the diagonal) from the middle of the anklebone to between the knuckles of the big toe.

Toe shaping:
Round 1: needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds 4(5) times for a remainder of 16 sts. 4 on 1st needle, 8 on 2nd needle, 4 on 3rd needle. Knit the 4 sts from the first needle onto the third needle. Break the yarn leaving a long tail and use this to graft the toe together.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams.

These are the men's socks, made with SWS by Patons. (Totally different gauge; don't substitute.) I put a slip stitch rib on the heels, just for a change.

Baby Toque to Match Berry Sweater

2007-02-09T10:15:00.000-07:00

Materials:
-Microspun (Lion Brand) 1/3 - 1/2 ball of Magenta (MC) and small amount of French Vanilla
-3.75mm and 4mm needles
-Pompom maker
-yarn needle

Gauge: 24 sts = 4 inches on 4mm needles over Berry Stitch (see Berries & Cream Baby Sweater)

Size
Small- up to 6 months Large- up to 12 months

With CC and 3.75mm needles, cast on 74(94)sts.
Work k1,p1 rib for 8 rows.
Switch to MC and 4mm needles, and k1 row.
Next Row: K1, begin Berry Stitch, k1
When work is 7(9) inches long, cast off.

Finishing:
Sew side seam. Top seam is sewn into a cross, and then the points pulled up and sewn into a peak. Using Mattress Stitch, sew 9(11) sts on top together. Skip 18(24) sts on both sides of top, and then sew 9(12) tog, making sure the last sewn stitch of the first part is snug against the first stitch of the second part, thus forming a cross with the unsewn parts. Join yarn to 9th(12th) stitch at left hand side, and sew 9(12) sts tog, then another 9(12) sts on the right hand side of centre. With yarn still joined, sew the points together into a peak. End off yarn. With CC, make a pompom and sew to peak. Weave in all ends.

This pattern is for personal use only. If you wish to share it, please direct your friends to this site. Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams.

Baby Booties to Match Berry Sweater

2007-02-09T09:53:00.002-07:00

April 28, 2011
Errata: For the large size of booties on the instep, it should read:
Row 1: k20(24), k2tog, sl 1, bring yarn to front (byf), turn work
It originally read (25).
I am sorry for the inconvenience. I am working on a downloadable PDF for this pattern, with clearer instructions and corrections.

Booties:

Size: Small (3-6 months) and large (6-12 months). (Changes for large size are in brackets)

Materials:
1 pair 4mm (size 6) needles and 3.75 needles (for ribbed top)
1 ball Microspun, in Magenta or French Vanilla (leftovers from sweater will be more than sufficient)
tapestry needle
contrasting color ribbon (if desired), about 2 feet per bootie.

Pattern Notes:
•Worked starting from sole.
•Increases are worked by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch.
•Instructions are given for a lace top and a ribbed top.
•Leave a long yarn end after casting off for easier seam sewing.
•ssk is: slip next two stitches onto right needle knitwise, insert left hand needle back into stitches, and knit together.

Sole & Toe shaping:
Cast on 23(29) sts
Knit 2 rows
Row 3: k11(14), inc1, k1, inc1, k11(14)
Row 4: k1, inc1, k23(29), inc1, k1
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: K12(15), inc1, k3, inc1, k12(15)
Row 7: k1, inc1, k27(33), inc1, k1
Row 8: knit
Row 9: k13(16), inc1, k5, inc1, k13(16)
•small size: knit until piece measures 1.5 inches.•
•large size:
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: k16, inc1, k7, inc1, k16.
Knit until piece measures 1.75 inches.•

Instep:
Row 1: k20(24), k2tog, sl 1, bring yarn to front (byf), turn work
Row 2: sl 1,k6(8), k2 tog, sl 1, byf, turn work
Repeat Row 2 until you have 23(29) sts left. Knit to end of row. (Large: increase one stitch at the end of this row.)

Lace top:
Row 1: k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2* Repeat
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k1, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk* repeat to last st, k1
Row 4: Purl

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 times for small, 5 times for large. Cast off with a larger size needle.

Ribbed top:
Change to 3.75 mm needles and CC yarn.
Work a k1, p1 rib for 2.5(3) inches. Cast off with a larger size needle. For a seamless top which can be folded over (as shown), switch to double-pointed needles, inc 1 st, and work in the round.

Finishing:
Sew seams. Weave in yarn ends. Affix ribbon to bootie securely.

This pattern is for personal use only. If you would like to share it, send your friends to this site. Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams

Necessity is the Mother of... Stir Sicks

2007-02-08T16:43:00.000-07:00

I used to drive a school bus. I never actually knitted while driving (the turns would have been awkward) but I will admit that visions of beautiful sweaters and afghans filled my mind as I drove. (Kids? What kids?) After my run I would often wait at the bus yard for my husband to come and drive me home. What better thing to do with an idle hour than knit? However, sometimes I would forget (or lose) my cable needle... and then, what to do?? Cable needles are in short supply in industrial parks, but there's lots of coffee- and I discovered that a stir stick will do for a cable needle or stitch holder in a pinch.

What's the weirdest thing you've ever adapted to your knitting needs? Leave a comment, I'd love to hear!

Berries & Cream Baby Sweater

2007-02-01T15:56:00.000-07:00

Please note that this pattern is my original design and may be used for personal use only. If you wish to share this with friends, please direct them to my site.

Berries & Cream Baby Sweater

Size: 9-12 months
Finished chest will be 25"

Materials:
•Lion Brand Microspun: 3 balls MC (Fuchsia) and 1 ball CC (French Vanilla) or colors of your choice.
•3.75 mm (size 5) & 4 mm (size 6) needles (one set each)
•4 buttons
•tapestry needle

Gauge:
24 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) over Berry Stitch pattern
32 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Berry Stitch:
multiple of 4 stitches.
* Row 1: *(K1, yo, k1) in same stitch, p3 tog; repeat from *. (Wrong side row.)
* Row 2: *K1, p3; repeat from *.
* Row 3: *K3, p1; repeat from *. (You will be knitting all knit stitches and purling all purl stitches.)
* Row 4: *P1, k3; repeat from *. (You will be purling all knit stitches and knitting all purl stitches.)
* Row 5: *P3 tog, (k1, yo, k1) in same stitch, ; repeat from *.
* Row 6: *P3, k1; repeat from *.
* Row 7: *P1, k3; repeat from *.
* Row 8: *k3, p1; repeat from *.

Pattern notes: When making decreases for the armholes, count your stitches on each decrease row. This stitch pattern can screw up the number of stitches if you're not careful. There is a selvedge stitch at each end of every piece.

BACK
With CC and smaller size needles, cast on 70 sts. Knit 6 rows. End off CC and join MC. Switch to larger needles. Knit 1 row.
Next row: (wrong side) k1, begin berry stitch, work until last stitch, k1. Continue in this manner until work measures 5.5 inches from beginning.
•Armhole shaping:
Bind of 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*Next Row: dec 1st at each end of row. Work next row even.* Repeat from * 4 more times. 56 sts remaining.
Continue knitting in pattern until work measures 10.5 inches from the beginning.
•Neck shaping:
Work 18, cast off 18, work 18.
N.R.: Work 18
N.R.: Dec 2 sts, (at neck edge) work 16
N.R.:Work 16
Cast off
Join yarn to other shoulder and work the same way.

Left Front
With CC and smaller size needles, cast on 34 sts. Knit 6 rows. Join MC, switch to larger needles and knit 1 row.
N.R.: K1, beg berry stitch, work till last stitch, k1.
Continue knitting in pattern until work measures 5.5 inches from beginning. Have the right side facing for the next row.
•Armhole shaping:
Row 1:Bind off 3 sts, knit in pattern to end. (31 sts)
2: dec 1 st at end of row (30 sts)
3: work even
4: dec 1 st at end of row (29 sts)
5: work even
6: dec 1 st at end of row (28 sts)
7: work even
8: dec 1 st at end of row (27 sts)
9: work even
10: dec 1 st at end of row (26 sts)
Work 4 inches (from beginning of armhole.) Wrong side facing for next row.
•Neck Shaping:
Row 1: Cast off 4 sts at beg of row
2: Work even
3: Cast off 3 sts at beg of row
4: Work Even
5: Dec 1 st at neck edge
6: Work even
7: Dec 1 st at neck edge
8: Work even
9: Dec 1 st at neck edge (16 sts left)
Cast off.

Right Front
Make the same as left front but start the armhole shaping on the wrong side and the neck shaping on the right side.

Sleeve (make 2)
Cast on 38 sts in CC with smaller needles, knit 6 rows. End CC. Join MC and switch to larger needles.
N.R.: k1, inc1, knit to last 2 sts, inc1, k1
Now begin berry stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of every fourth row until you have 64 sts. Work even until piece measures 7 inches.
Bind of 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*Next Row: dec 1st at each end of row. Work next row even.* Repeat from * 4 more times. 48 sts remaining. Piece should measure 8.5 inches. Add a few rows if you are short.

Finishing
With tapestry needle, sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves onto body. Sew side seams.
•Left front band: With right side of work facing and with smaller needles, join CC and pick up 54 sts evenly starting from the collar. Knit 7 rows. Cast off.
•Right front band: With right side of work facing and with smaller needles, join CC and pick up 54 sts evenly starting from the bottom. Knit 3 rows. Next row: K7, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k12, k2tog, yo, k3. Knit 3 rows. Cast off.
•Neckband: With right side facing and smaller needles, join CC and pick up 20 stitches from right front to shoulder, 28 sts across back, and 20 sts from left shoulder to the left front. Knit 5 rows. Cast off.

Copyright 2007, Rachel Abrams. For personal use only, and please link original url source.

Knitting Tanglewise

2007-01-31T11:44:00.000-07:00

Since all I do (besides the normal running of a household with two boys, studying Hebrew, playing the guitar and I forget what else) is knit and crochet, I can't resist starting up a blog to use up any vestiges of spare time which I might have spent reading. I'd love to have just a brag page (what knitter doesn't?), but that would be terribly useless, so I'll share tips and tricks I've picked up here and there, besides posting a few of my designs and ideas, favorite yarns, and who knows what else. A few spoilers- watch for baby layettes, slipper socks, boy's sweaters and little girls' poncho designs.

I was really hoping for a girl-baby at some point so I could have some excuse for depleting the yarn store's stock of novelty yarns, but it was not meant to be... except that now I have two nieces, who work very nicely as an excuse. I made a beige cable sweater for my older son, which he thought was horribly boring (he said "I wanted orange!") until I explained that the cables were train tracks and he mistook "bobbles" for "bubbles"- and now it's the coolest thing going. Still, boys are harder to knit for; there's no clamor for pink eyelash yarn or lace edgings. Since I have boys, I'll be posting as many "made for boys" patterns as I make up, since there really aren't that many out there- and sometimes just substituting a dark yarn doesn't really cut it.